Rock-solid performances at CaveFest 2024

An Ashevillian’s post-hurricane festival journey

By Andrea “Andy” Hall

Five days before I was scheduled to go to CaveFest, I was in a daze; climbing over large, fallen trees that Hurricane Helene had taken down with a few strong breaths — trees that had seen the centuries of change on the bluff of the French Broad River, where I lived. The river was swollen so high that I could see it from my driveway, which was not the normal view. A truck was overturned smack dab in the middle.

My friend Kelly and her young daughter were coming to help me evacuate to my new cabin in Waynesville, about 30 minutes west of Asheville. I had been scheduled to move the weekend of the storm — a move that had been planned for months — but that would have to wait. I was grateful to have the already-furnished space to go to, and grabbed my cats — along with my “festival gear,” which consists of my camera bag, a notebook, my laptop and my tiny microphone — and away we drove, under downed trees and power lines.

I was conflicted whether or not to leave the Asheville area and cover a festival. I had many friends lost their entire homes and livelihoods. As I was reflecting on my decision, I decided it would be best to go do what I was good at, and try to bring awareness at the same time. I wasn’t sure how, and I was exhausted mentally and physically — but I was determined.

My friend Kathy came to pick me up in her camper, which she graciously invited me to stay in for the weekend. Of course Interstate 40 was completely washed out at the North Carolina/Tennessee border, so we had to take the longer route through the Nantahala Gorge — along with the tractor trailers and all the other rerouted traffic. But we weren’t in a hurry as we were arriving to the campground Thursday and the festival wasn’t officially beginning until Friday afternoon.

After five hours driving through autumn-kissed mountains and then foothills, including a time change to CST around Chattanooga, we had arrived at The Caverns property, located in Grundy County, Tennessee. We were directed to the RV camping area, where cheerful staff helped place us precisely in rows with other campers. As we got settled, we met our neighbors — one family from north Georgia, another from Texas, and the ones across the gravel road from WAYNESVILLE (my new town in Western North Carolina). Everyone immediately started asking questions about the hurricane, and what was still needed in our area. That weird feeling that I shouldn’t be away from home came over me again, but there was nothing I could do but work on my assignment, what I try to do best.

Around 10 p.m., we decided to get a lay of the land and look for some campground pickin’. A huge surprise to us, we didn’t find ANY! In fact, most campers in our area were lights out and quiet by that time. I decided to do a quick social media check, and saw that someone in Asheville had posted a photo of the aurora borealis, so decided to see what we could see in the foothills of Tennessee. Lo and behold, there they were, ethereal patches of pink and purple, with the stars piercing them, for extra glitter. A few folks who were still up came and marveled at them with us, and I took it as a stellar sign for the weekend to come. I was indeed in the right place.

About The Caverns

The silly Dad pun, “stalactites are always hanging out in the coolest places” makes sense when it comes to The Caverns. The venue — which consists of two caves, a large amphitheater and lots of flat land for camping — hosts many shows and festivals throughout the year. It is also the current home of PBS show “The Caverns Sessions,” formerly known as “Bluegrass Underground,” which was previously held about 30 miles away at the Cumberland Caverns until 2018.

The Caverns venue includes Big Mouth Cave, which can hold 1,250 standing room only, as well as a 6,000-person capacity amphitheater. The festival had a VIP camping area, a quiet area, pre-set yurts, showers and several food and clothing, craft and jewelry vendors.

Soaking in the Elements

The logistics of CaveFest, only being in its third, are mostly impressive; however, there are a few kinks they might want to work out for the future. My press pass wasn’t available when we checked in, which was no big deal; but for some reason, getting up and walking across a hot shadeless field first thing in the morning wasn’t my favorite mission. But it was easy, and one smart food vendor was set up near the main entrance, so I was able to grab some brunch — a wagyu burger. The veteran-run food truck, Biker Bites, also served up exotic game such as kangaroo, ostrich and alligator — and had a decent line for early morning. “They serve Beyond Burgers!” laughed one patron to another. “I look at it as they include ALL tastes,” replied the patron’s friend.

After enjoying my burger-for-breakfast, it was time to start my workday. Although the music didn’t begin until 4, there were tours of the smaller cave, called Big Room Cave, going on throughout the day. There was even a rumor that a band might pop up during one of the tours.

The trek from the campground to the music area was not the easiest — and I’m a hiker. Once you go through a security gate, you follow a beautiful uphill path through the woods for a little over a quarter of a mile to a large, sloping field that has natural rock “seating” in the upper level and a surprisingly huge, state of the art concert stage at the bottom — with a view of the surrounding Cumberland Plateau behind it. I take note as I continue behind the staging area, passing the main, or Big Mouth Cave, to the left. As I am walking up the dusty, gravel parking lot — almost to Big Room Cave — I pass Larry Keel going to his van. We hug and exchange greetings, and the first thing he asks me about is Asheville and the hurricane. The Larry Keel Experience had just weeks before played Salvage Station, a venue along the French Broad River that was completely destroyed by flooding. “We have a long way to go, thank you for asking,” I replied, and we agreed to catch up later.

It was a full house when I get to the meeting area for the cave tour. Right on the hour, a guide took us down, where the air was noticeably, and welcomingly, much cooler. As we toured the dimly lit cave, we heard a little about the history and a lot about the nicknames that the staff calls cave formations (“cave bacon” is the one that sticks out). My eyes aren’t so great in dim light, and I saw several folks walking as tenderly as I was, afraid one step out of time would result in a fall or a twisted ankle. As the cave opened up to a larger space, the tour was surprised to see the three members of the quartet of Sicard Hollow lit up. They entertained the delighted crowd with a couple of songs, then took off to prepare for their set later that evening. It was my cue to dodge out as well, as I didn’t want to miss the opening of the music, which was all scheduled for the amphitheater stage, until Late Night with Airshow at 11:30 p.m. in the main cave.

The performances kicked off with Colorado-based band The Sweet Lillies, who entertained the audience with their high energy reinterpretations of 1990’s hip-hop, as well as a few originals. Impressive as they were, I personally was starting to feel lost again, and doubting my decision to go so far away from home. Next on stage was The Larry Keel Experience, which made me feel grounded and like I was at home. I was able to catch up with the Keels afterwards.

Catching Up With The Keels

Festy GoNuts: You have strong ties to Asheville and Western NC. In fact, last time we met, I was doing a story on Salvage Station through the years. Do you have any thoughts you can share with your fans and family in that area?

The Keels: Western North Carolina is so important to us as THE foundation region that helped launch and sustain this career since the mid 1990’s … we have deep friendships with so many people there, especially with some of the greatest artists of our time who live there. It’s unfathomable to think of the total devastation that has happened throughout that region. We send our most heartfelt prayers for relief and restoration to those who have lost so much. We’re involved in different areas of response and aid to that area, and due to the shocking reality of what happened in a place where no one thought such a catastrophe could happen, we’re taking Community Emergency Relief Team training at our local fire and rescue squad. This terrible event has awakened us to learn how to be more prepared to deal with a crisis when it occurs and be ready and able to help anyone around us with some level of skill and confidence.What an eye opener this all has been … but the resilient spirit of the folks in WNC and Appalachia is strong, and we so look forward to being able to convene with communities down there again. It’ll happen!

FGN: Was this your first time at CaveFest? What did you enjoy most about it this year?

Keels: This was our second time at CaveFest itself, and at least the fourth time playing this particular Caverns site (we’ve played concerts inside this cave over the past several years), and we had played the McMinnville cave a few times. We love this area and the fantastic folks who produce these events in such a unique and inspiring setting.

Our time at this year’s CaveFest was wonderful! Perfect fall weather, we loved playing the ‘sunset set’ from 5:30-7 on the main stage. It was extra special having the phenomenal fiddler John Mailander join us for the last half hour of the show. There’s no end to the creative exploration we all love to pursue together! We like to unofficially call this particular unit ‘The 4-piece For Peace.’

Another highlight was when Larry sat in with Airshow inside the Cave for the late night set. That was fire! They’re an incredible band, and they really know how to lead a jam. The theme they had for that night was ‘Elements: Fire, Air, Water, Earth’, so all the songs they chose were related to an element. A particular favorite of mine (Jenny’s) was Larry’s ride on Widespread Panic’s ‘Cool Water,’ it was exciting! The whole set was superb. We just love CaveFest.

Spacey Saturday

I am not into yoga, but apparently a lot of the campers were, as I watched a surprising number of folks walking toward the amphitheater from the campground around 10 AM Saturday morning. Even if I was into yoga, I woke up not feeling well. I wasn’t too alarmed, as I have an auto-immune disorder; but, I was disappointed. I am still trying to figure out my limitations with this disease, it differs on a case-by-case basis. But the only thing I could do in the middle of a campground at a festival over 200 miles from my home was to pace myself. I did the obligatory walk through the field for that day’s press pass (thankfully, the woman at the gate dated mine for Sunday this time as well) and returned to eat some overnight oats and rest in the shade until the music began. It was a doubly full day, with performances at the amphitheater and the main cave throughout.

After the scheduled cave yoga, sound bath and a Q&A with The Caverns’ owner (how cool to own caves, I thought!) Todd Mayo, New England-based Americana group Three Tall Pines started off the music at the amphitheater at 2:30 p.m. Other performances Saturday afternoon were by CaveFest’s unofficial artists-in-residence John Mailander and Lindsay Lou. Rounding out the day were Slay & Stinson, Pixie & the Partygrass Boys, Arkansauce — and, the evening’s headliner, Railroad Earth. Late night, Airshow played the Big Cave again; this time, with Space as the theme

I got to chat with members of Railroad Earth after their set.

Railroad Earth Interview

Festy GoNuts: I am based in Asheville, NC, where the hurricane has wreaked havoc.. Your Oct. 20 show at The Orange Peel is postponed. Can you provide your many Asheville fans some thoughts?

Railroad Earth: We have watched with as much heartbreak as everyone else what the water did to so many communities in NC and TN. It’s a very special part of the country, and also very supportive of RRE and music in general. We look forward to returning when it’s time and hopefully bring some distraction to a lot of people that need it.

FGN: Have you played at The Caverns before?

Railroad Earth: We have played at the Caverns a few times, including Bluegrass Underground. It’s always a very unusual and cool experience. The caves themselves are amazing. Having the idea to play music in them is inspired.

FGN: What do you like most about it? What about CaveFest?

Railroad Earth: Cavefest was a different experience than previous shows at the Caverns because we were in the field instead! What a perfect natural amphitheater.

Sunday’s Cosmic Chaos out in the Country

I had heard there was pickin’ in the campground near the yurts, but each night I was too exhausted to make it too late. I was grateful to not have to go get another press pass Sunday morning, and decided to take it easy like aforementioned morning, as the song goes — making a detailed list for the day that included performances by and interviews with the likes of Jim Lauderdale, Béla Fleck and Abigail Washburn and The Travelin’ McCourys. My “breakfast” consisted of the best slow cooked pot roast, or roast beef, sandwich with ample melted provolone and grilled peppers and onions from Fields Family Concessions (apparently, it’s so good he sold out quickly afterwards!). I took advantage of the showers (I am not the best camper, I need my amenities) and was ready for the afternoon. I missed the cave yoga again, as well as the gospel set from Slay & Stinson.

On my walk to the amphitheater, where Big Richard was jamming from 1-2, I ran into Gaia Phelps, a Jacksonville, Florida teenager who started the tradition of building a “fairyland” about halfway to the stage from the entrance at last year’s festival. By the end of the weekend, the creation had grown from a few small twigs that made up a campfire to a full-on festie-style lit up wonderland — complete with a stone-lined walkway, mushrooms, a surfer and a stuffed animal donning a tinfoil hat. Unfortunately, Phelps lost her voice and I was unable to interview her, but got her information in hopes to do so before next year. She said she planned to make the “fairyland” an annual project.

Before I got ready to watch and talk with Jim Lauderdale, I relaxed as Clay Street Unit played the amphitheater stage. I missed Uncle John’s Band in the cave and was going to miss Colby T. Helms and the Virginia Creepers as well, but was up front and center as soon as Mr. Lauderdale took the stage. And then … THE POWER GOES OUT, and apparently it was out in the entire town! Again, apropos. But there was no time for reflection, as Lauderdale started to MIME on stage, causing an uproar of laughter. Next thing you know, he and members of his band The Gamechangers were in a procession with staff and security, WALKING INTO THE CROWD AND ON THE LAWN, declaring with their unintentional yet noticeable pomp and circumstance, that the show must go on!

I scurried to the front of the crowd, plopped myself down with my camera while at the same time, Lauderdale plops his can of Music Water from Austin, Texas right in front of me, makes a joke (or a few), and PLAYS. They played their HEARTS out. The crowd was going absolutely insane, including me, the supposedly unbiased journalist. Next thing you know, John Mailander joined them on fiddle, and the moment was worth the entire weekend.

Lauderdale goes to the taper’s mic next to me, tapped it and joked, “Mr. Gorbachev, tear down this …” and started laughing, as does the audience. I look over, and the taper is my friend Steven Ziegler, taper extraordinaire since 1980 something. The cosmos was speaking, and its outlet was Jim Lauderdale.

After including the crowd in favorite “Headed for the Hills,” the power came back on, and he and the band headed back to the stage to finish the absolutely mind-blowing set.

I was able to talk a little bit with Lauderdale, who seems to be the busiest man in Americana.

Jim Lauderdale Interview

Fest GoNuts: You have roots in Western NC. Do you have any thoughts you can share with your fans and family in that area?

Jim Lauderdale: I’ll bet all of us know someone who was affected tragically by these devastating storms and as musicians there are going to be a lot of ways to help those many in need

FGN: Your last minute performance in the lawn due to the power outage was the highlight of CaveFest for many fans. What was your favorite part of this year’s festival?

Jim Lauderdale: It was so fun to get to be out there with that smiling and kind audience out on the lawn . It was also good to get back on the stage with The Game Changers to hear their electric playing for a few songs with the time left in our set. Sometimes the unexpected can be a joyful kind of surprise! It was something I will never forget.

I’m really proud of Todd Mayo, who is the creator and chief of CaveFest. He’s been helping a music community grow since he co-created Music City Roots. He’s started something really special, and has a great team.

FGN: Your schedule proves you are one of the hardest working persons in Americana. How do you do it all, and stay so positive with such a great sense of humor (read: miming lol).

Jim Lauderdale: The folks that come out to the shows keep me going. It’s fulfilling to get to sing and play for them and inspires me to come up with new songs. I hope I can keep on for as long as Keith and Mick, George Jones and Ralph Stanley.

At sunset, Béla Fleck and his wife and fellow musician Abigail Washburn — “the king and queen of the banjo” — took the amphitheater stage, playing a set so magically musical I half expected twilight fairies to twirl from the surrounding mountains. Even better was their announcement that all proceeds from their merchandise would go toward relief efforts in WNC and Eastern Tennessee. They then dedicated a brand new song to those affected.

“Holding onto life in the thick of a hurricane
Don’t let them take you at all.”

They sang with raw and meaningful emotion, and we felt it in our “bluegrass hearts.”

Afterwards, Fleck – along with Lauderdale — made a surprise appearance at the 8 p.m. Open Cave Jam. If things couldn’t get any better, the topper was the close-out amphitheater sets from The Travelin’ McCourys, the last of which was their famous The Grateful Ball, during which they played their bluegrass interpretations of Grateful Dead songs. They got the crowd dancing, and amped up for Airshow’s final late night set in the cave, with the theme Cosmic Country.

Ronnie McCoury Interview

Ronnie McCoury was kind enough to chat with me after the festival, and after attending the wedding of bandmate fiddle player Jason Carter, who married sweetheart and fiddler Brownwyn Keith-Hynes Tuesday after CaveFest.

Festy GoNuts: You have strong ties to Asheville and Western NC – their music scene has been devastated by the hurricane. Do you have any thoughts you can share with your fans and family in that area?

Ronnie McCoury: Both my mother and father’s sides of the family are from Western North Carolina, Mitchell County to be exact. Though I have never lived there I feel a strong connection. There is a portion of route 261 from Bakersville named Del McCoury Highway.

Our musical heritage runs deep here. There are so many fans, friends, and contemporaries from this part of the country that have been deeply affected by this tragedy … and my heart goes out to them.

I’ve been able to be a part of a couple benefit shows in Nashville and every little bit helps. I’m hoping to get back soon and play some music for some folks.

FGN: Was this your first time at CaveFest? What did you enjoy most about it this year?

Ronnie McCoury: This was the second appearance for the Travelin’ McCourys at Cavefest. We were there last year.

They have a wonderful festival happening there. We have performed many times in the cave for them through the years, but it was nice to be part of their well-run festival.

We enjoyed having guests — Jim Lauderdale, Lindsey Lou and John Mailander join us during our set.

FGN: How long have you been doing The Grateful Ball, and how has it evolved? I saw you perform at the Jerry Garcia Bluegrass Journey exhibit opening in Owensboro, KY. Tell our readers why playing the music of Garcia and the Dead is important to you?

Ronnie McCoury: This year we performed the Grateful Ball. This is the music of the Grateful Dead with our take on it. We’ve been doing this show on and off for about eight years. I first discovered Jerry Garcia through the band Old & In the Way as I am a huge David Grisman fan. This led me to the Grateful Dead and their music. I have always enjoyed their songs and songwriting and felt that it would lend itself easily to Bluegrass. Many people enjoy the same kinship and seem to like our take on these songs.

The following morning, although I awoke around 8:30, it was as if it was all a dream.

Most everyone had cleared out of the campground, except us and a few sleeping Sunday night off.

It was time to pack up and head back to my mountains, and I was ready, with a newfound sense of community behind me.

~ Andrea “Andy” Hall for Festy GoNuts